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Stack Sites in Lewis: Geography, Translations, and Archaeological Significance, Study notes of Topography

Information on the stack sites in Lewis, including their locations, Gaelic translations, and archaeological significance. The creation of these stack sites is influenced by various factors such as pre-Pleistocene landform, climate, marine variability, sea level rise, and availability of marine and organic sediment. Chris Burgess conducted extensive research on these sites throughout the 1990s, identifying areas with high frequencies of stack sites and discussing the evidence available to understand their formation.

Typology: Study notes

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3 1 Geological formation of stacks
A study of the coastal sites of Lewis must take
into account the geological and geomorphological
processes of site formation. The topography of the
Lewis coastline is determined in part by the islands’
underlying geology. The physical structure of the
rocks at the shore determines the formation of
stacks and inlets. Although in summary the solid
geology of Lewis is relatively uniform, comprising
Lewisian gneiss with metasediments and conglom-
erates in more localised areas, in reality, the more
closely it is studied, the more complex it becomes
(Angus 1997, 8).
However, the geology is only the medium from
which the sculptured shoreline is made. The creation
of the stacks, geos (inlets) and reefs of Lewis is also
determined by other variables, including the pre-
Pleistocene landform, climate, marine variability,
sea level rise and the availability of marine and
organic sediment (Angus 1997, 84). The erosion of
the coasts by the sea is the main influence acting
on these variables. During severe winters the west
coast of Lewis will be subject to breaking waves
exerting a pressure exceeding 24 tonnes/m2 (ibid,
87).
This continual bombardment of the coastline
eventually compromises weak bedding planes and
soft rocks, leading to the formation of a variety
of different features depending on the geological
structure of the bedrock. Where weaker or softer
strata lie parallel to the shoreline across a
peninsula, sea caves will form and eventually meet,
leading to the creation of an arch, and following the
collapse of the arch, to an isolated stack. If weaker
rocks are perpendicular to the shoreline, geos and
inlets will form.
The term ‘stack’ is difficult to define, but usually
refers to an isolated pinnacle of rock entirely sur-
rounded by the sea at high tide (Mellor 2002, 2). If
its summit has a larger diameter than its height,
then it is an island. Many of the sites included in
this project are islands or promontories, despite
being described as ‘stacks’ by their place names.
For instance, Stac Domhnuill Chaim (see Section
6), and Stac a’Chaisteal (see Section 7), are both
permanently joined to the mainland. The literal
translation of the Gaelic stac given by ‘Dwelly’s dic-
tionary’ is ‘precipice, steep, high cliff or hill’ (Dwelly
1994), and usually applies to any topographic
feature which has a pinnacle-like or hay-stack-like
shape, including the mountains Stacaiseal, Lewis
(NB 3065 3740) and Stac Pollaidh (NC 108 105)
and Beinn Stac (NC 270 422) in the north-west
Highlands.
3 2 Location of stack sites in Lewis
Chris Burgess undertook a large amount of research
on promontory enclosures in Lewis throughout the
1990s (Burgess 1999, 2000); a research interest that
developed from his work surveying the coastline
of Lewis during the Coastal Erosion Assessment
(Burgess 1999, 93). He admitted that the ‘promon-
tory enclosure’ description of these sites may well be
an inaccurate one: many of the sites are not ‘enclosed’
but merely ‘barred’ (ibid), and tidal stack sites are
also included in the overall term. He does however
divide his general terminology into four sub-categor-
ies: promontories, headlands (both barred), coastal
enclosures and stacks (which may be linked to or
separated from the shore; ibid 96).
The CEAL survey classified 80 sites as promon-
tory enclosures (Burgess 1999, 94). The general
distribution of these sites covers much of the Lewis
coastline but Burgess divided them into five general
areas (ibid, 95–96).
Area 1 – Brenish, Islivig and Camas Uig (17 sites):
typified by high eroding sea cliffs with a mixture of
high and low promontories and several knife-edge
stacks.
Area 2 Bernera and the Loch Roag complex (12
sites): typified by low eroding edges punctuated by
shingle beaches. This area includes Bernera and the
Bhaltos Peninsula.
Area 3 Garenin to Barvas (13 sites): dominated
by high Atlantic cliffs with frequent promontories,
interspersed with small bays of sand and shingle.
Area 4 – North Galson, Ness and Skigersta (16 sites):
dominated by machair to the west and high cliffs
to the east all backed with flat croft land, this area
is the smallest of the five. The coastline has a com-
bination of extensive, low promontories and large
eroding stacks on which sites are situated.
Area 5 –Tolsta, Broad Bay and the Eye Peninsula
(14 sites): this area is the most dispersed and covers
the biggest geographic area, with high eroding sea
cliffs to the north at Tolsta, and low eroding cliffs
formed from soft conglomerate rocks in the Broad
Bay area. The Eye Peninsula also has many high
sea cliffs punctuated by stacks and promontories,
with a change further south as the terrain becomes
one of low eroding edges and gentle stacks.
Burgess noted that stacks and promontory enclos-
ures are most common in Area 4, forming 25% of the
3 THE FORMATION AND LOCATION OF STACKS IN
LEWIS
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3 A study of the coastal sites of Lewis must takeinto account the geological and geomorphprocesses of site formation. The topography of theLewis coastline is determined in part by the islands’underlying geology. The physical structure of therocksstacks and inlets. Although in summary the solidgeology of Lewis is relatively uniform, comprisingLewisian gneiss with metasediments and conglom erates in more localised areas, in reality, the moreclosely it is studied, the more complex it becomes(Angus 1997, 8).which the sculptured shoreline is made. The creationof the stacks, geos (inlets) and reefs of Lewis is alsodetermined by other variables, including the pre-Pleistocene landform, climate, marine variability,sea level rise and the availability of marine andorganic sediment (Angus 1997, 84). The erosion ofthe coasts by the sea is the main influence actingon these variables. During severe winters the westcoast of Lewis will be subject to breaking wavesexerting a pressure exceeding 24 tonnes/m87).eventually compromises weak bedding planes andsoft rocks, leading to the formation of a varietyof different features depending on the geologi 1 However, the geology is only the medium fromThis Geological formation of stacks at continual the shore bombardment determines theof theformation coastlineo 2 logical (ibid, calof-

structure of the bedrock. Where weaker or softerstratapeninsula, sea caves will form and eventually meet,leading to the creation of an arch, and following thecollapse of the arch, to an isolated stack. If weakerrocks are perpendicular to the shoreline, geos andinlets will form.refers to an isolated pinnacle of rock entirely sur-rounded by the sea at high tide (Mellor 2002, 2). Ifits summit has a larger diameter than its height,then it is an island. Many of the sites included inthis project are islands or promontories, despitebeing described as ‘stacks’ by their place names.For instance, Stac Domhnuill Chaim (see Section6), and Stac a’Chaisteal (see Section 7), are bothpermanently joined to the mainland. The literaltranslation of the Gaelictionary’ is ‘precipice, steep, high cliff or hill’ (Dwelly1994),feature which has a pinnacle-like or hay-stack-likeshape, including the mountains Stacaiseal, Lewis(NB 3065 3740) and Stac Pollaidh (NC 108 105)and Beinn Stac (NC 270 422) in the north-westHighlands.The term ‘stack’ is difficult to define, but usually andlie parallelusually toapplies stac the given by ‘Dwelly’s dic-toshoreline any top acrossographic a

3 Chris Burgess undertook a large amount of researchon promontory enclosures in Lewis throughout the1990s (Burgess 1999, 2000); a research interest thatdeveloped from his work surveying the coastlineof Lewis during the Coastal Erosion Assessment(Burgess 1999, 93). He admitted that the ‘promon-tory enclosure’ description of these sites may well bean inaccurate one: many of the sites are not ‘enclosed’but merely ‘barred’ (ibid), and tidal stack sites arealso included in the overall term. He does howeverdivide his general terminology into four sub-categor ies: promontories, headlands (both barred), coastalenclosures and stacks (which may be linked to orseparated from the shore; ibid 96).torydistribution of these sites covers much of the Lewiscoastline but Burgess divided them into five generalareas (ibid, 95–96). Area 1 – Brenish, Islivig and Camas Uig typified by high eroding sea cliffs with a mixture ofhigh and low promontories and several knife-edgestacks. Area 2 – Bernera and the Loch Roag complex sites): typified by low eroding edges punctuated byshingle beaches. This area includes Bernera and the 2 The CEAL survey classified 80 sites as promon- Location of stack sites in Lewis enclosures (Burgess 1999, 94). The (17 sites): general (12-

Bhaltos Peninsula. Area 3 – Garenin to Barvas by high Atlantic cliffs with frequent promontories,interspersed with small bays of sand and shingle. Area 4 – North Galson, Ness and Skigersta dominated by machair to the west and high cliffsto the east all backed with flat croft land, this areais the smallest of the five. The coastline has a com-bination of extensive, low promontories and largeeroding stacks on which sites are situated. Area 5 –Tolsta, Broad Bay and the Eye Peninsula (14 sites):the biggest geographic area, with high eroding seacliffs to the north at Tolsta, and low eroding cliffsformed from soft conglomerate rocks in the BroadBay area. The Eye Peninsula also has many highsea cliffs punctuated by stacks and promontories,with a change further south as the terrain becomesone of low eroding edges and gentle stacks.Burgess noted that stacks and promontory enclos ures are most common in Area 4, forming 25% of the this area is the most dispersed and covers (13 sites): dominated (16 sites):-

3 THE FORMATION AND LOCATION OF STACKS IN LEWIS

sites there, with Area 1 having only slightly fewer.When the areas are combined, stacks and promon-tory enclosures make up 13% of all sites. As noted onthe table of stacks (table 1), five of the sites chosenfor study by the STAC project fall into Burgess’ Area4, which he found to have a very high frequency ofstack sites. The rest are distributed evenly acrossthe other areas described above. 3 The relative sea level has an obvious bearing onthe interpretation of the types of site being studied,especially as we now know that there was activity insuch places as long ago as the Neolithic (see Discus-sion Section 17, and the report on Dunasbroc PartIII Section 18). Were the archaeological structuresbuilt upon positions similar to what we now see, orwere the structures built upon sites that were sub-sequently eroded into their present shape? Thereare two forms of evidence available to help answerthis question – the scientific study of sea levels andcoastal morphology, and the archaeology remainingon each site itself. Evidence for the latter will bediscussed in the section on each site.during the Holocene has combined with the generaleustatic rise in sea level to create varying coastaleffects. In an area encompassing the central belt 3 Differential isostatic uplift in northern Britain Sea level rise and erosion

and much of the Highlands of Scotland, sea level isfalling in relation to the land, due to sea level risebeing outpaced by the isostatic uplift. This upliftgrades out to a zero isobase outside which the sealevel is rising relative to the land.sinking into the sea. However, the rate at whichthis is happening seems to be a matter of debate.Professor J. Hansom, in Dawson (2003, 10) gives thefigure as 0.7mm per annum for recent sea level risesThere is consensus that the Western Isles are

in Stornoway (modified after Carter 1988). However,this needs to be added to the figure for isostaticsubmergence to attain the relative sea level. Newresearch in this field is likely to lead to significantchanges to these figures (J Hansom pers comm).As a working figure pending these changes, Ritchie(1985) estimates a coastal submergence of between3m and 5m sincetranslates as an average relative sea level rise ofless than 1mm per year. There is, as yet, no datarelating specifically to the north of Lewis (ProfessorA Dawson, pers comm).year. From this it is possible to estimate that in theIron Age the sea was c into the seabed in each study area, combined withsea-level changes, could demonstrate the differen-ces in coastline plan, for example, at Baile Sear,North Uist (Barber et al 2003). Unfortunately, high-defiLewis are very rare and it was not possible to findsufficient data to attempt any kind of reconstructioncoastal modelling which could have been added tothe digital terrain modelling of each stack. However,in most cases (other than Caisteal a’ Mhorair andStac Mor Garrabost, see Sections 15 and 16) thesea bed appears to fall steeply away immediatelyfrom the stacks, leading to the working assumptionthat eight of the eleven sites may not have looked 4m and in the NeolithicThe average of the above figures isnition surveys c 5164 of c 2m lower; in the Bronze Agethe bp c 5–7m. Detailed research inshorefor the Uists, which he waters c 2mm per around

radically different from their present-day appear ance, but they were a little taller.seem likely that the majority of the sites were joinedto the mainland in prehistory, and probably startedtheir lives as headlands or promontories, and somemay even have had arches. Part of the attractionof such sites in prehistory, as it is today, was likelyto have been their height, isolation and liminalplacement on the boundary between sea and land.Erosion has had a significant effect, as it would-

Name^ Location^ Translation of place-name^ 8

NGR #^ Eastings^ Northings Stac a Phris^ Gearrannan^ the most common usage of preas is for shrub –

of the shrub?^ NB^21700 Stac a Ruta^ Clibhe^ of the ram^ is the first that springs to mind^

NB^08450

Stac an Arbhair^ Leurbost^ of the corn?^

NB^40530

Stac an Fhir Mhaoil^ Calbost^ of the fear ; maol in everyday language would suggest

of the bald-headed man NB^42503 16773 the other familiar use for the adjective maol is bluntthe noun maol can be the brow of a rock or it can be a headland, as in Mull of Kintyre Stac an Sgornain^ Great Bernera^ the only meaning I know for sgòrnan is^ throat

NB^13400

Stac an Taoid^ Islivig^ taod = rope or halter –^ of the rope?^

NA^98050

Stac an Tuamachain^ Clibhe^ tuam is used for mound, particularly tomb, but have not met it with this ending before

NB^07500

Stac an Tuill^ Bearasay^ of the hole^

NB^11900

Stac an Tuill^ Islivig^ as above^

NA^98150

Stac Caol Geodha Mhaoir^ Arnol^ caol can be adjective meaning^ narrow^ and also noun meaning

narrows/strait/sound/channel^ – caol^ NB^31200 50200 Muile/sound of Mullsuggests narrow stac in the cove of the factor (the most common usage of maor but can be any officialkeeper of something e.g. maor-sìthe – policeman /maor-coille – forest ranger /maor-cladaich –^ coastguard Stac Domhnaill Chaim*^ Mangersta^ of Domhnall Cam^

NB^00190

Stac Leathann^ Islivig^ broad stac^

NA^98200

Stac mor Garrabost*^ Garrabost^ unknown^

NB^49776

Stac na Beiridhe*^ Timsgarry^ Norse berg for a^ hill? seems there is a Berry in Orkney

NB^03060

Stac na Caillich^ Barvas^ cailleach is usually^ old woman^

NB^35800

Stac na Caoraich Lachduinne^ Carloway^ of the dark-coloured sheep^

NB^17200

Stac na Faoileig^ Barvas^ of the seagull^

NB^34900

Stac na Faoileig^ Bragar^ as above^

NB^27400

Stac nam Balg^ Old Hill Isle^ balg can be used for a^ bag^ or a^ blister^

NB^11500

Stac nan Crubag^ Aird Uig^ of the crabs^

NB^05080

Stac nan Eilean^ Bearasay^ of the islands^

NB^11900

Stac nan Eun^ Bragar^ of the birds^

NB^26900

Stac nan Gabhar^ Tong^ of the goats^

NB^56407

Stac nan Scargh^ Calbost^ Norse skari for^ young seagull^ or skarfr for^ cormorant NB^42216 Stac nan Sgarbh in Gress, Bragar and Mangersta is the word we use for cormorant and this one couldwell have a bird connectione.g. Eilean na Sgarbh (Isle of the Scarts) or Scart Rock as it is known locally

Stac nan Sgarbh^ Bragar^ of the cormorants^

NB^28300

Stac nan Sgarbh^ Gress^ as above^

Table 1 ( cont .) NB^51861

Name^ Location^ Translation of place-name^ 9

NGR #^ Eastings^ Northings Stac nan Sgarbh^ Mangersta^ as above^

NB^00380

Stac nan Uamhannan^ Mangersta^ immediately suggests^ of the caves^ the spelling is more like the plural of uamhann meaning

NB^00060 32000 terror/dread but may be due to incorrectspelling on map Stac Shuardail^ Knock^ of Swordale^

NB^48910

Staca Bearnach^ Carloway^ suggests^ jagged^

NB^17200

Staca Biorach^ Islivig^ biorach suggests^ pointed^ or^ sharp^ biorach is also the word for^ dogfish , but more likely to be former

NB^99150

Staca Coal na Ribh Uarach^ Shawbost^ narrow stac of the upper reef? – ribh spelt this way means ‘to you’ as in ‘speaking to you’, so this is just aguess – riof is the usual spelling

NB^23400

Staca Corr^ Islivig^ pointed^ or^ peaked stac^

NA^98150

Staca Liath^ Liongam^ liath is certainly a light colour but it varies according to contextI use it for grey hair (Ness) – in Skye it is pale blue – and it is used to describe hoar frost

NA^99500

Staca Mharstaig^ Aird Uig^

NB^06670

Staca Mhic Cubhaig^ Borve^

NB^39800

Staca na Bodaich^ Aird Uig^ bodach usually^ old man^

NB^06050

Staca na Geodha Glaise^ Shawbost^ of the green cove^

NB^24200

Stacageo^ Islivig^ suggests^ stac^ and^ geodha^ (creek or cove formed by surrounding rocks)

NB^99500

Stacan a Leothaid Ghlais^ Gearrannan^ -an^ ending can be a plural or a diminutive –

little stac? – this suggests^ of the green slope NB^21700 45700 i.e. Glas Maol is grey-green hill Stacanan Dubha^ Carloway^ black^

NB^17900

Stacanan Fudrigeo^ Aird Uig^ geo(dha)?^

NB^05500

Stacanan Neidacliv^ Aird Uig^ Cliff placename in Uig and^ nead/nid^ (nest/nests) – probably has no connection whatsoever

NB^05700

Stacannan Chrois Geodha^ Islivig^ Norse kross for^ cross /gja for^ chasm^ suggests^ more than one hill or rock and cross and a narrow creek or cove between rocks

NB^99700

Stacannan Chuido^ Mangersta^

NB^00200

Table 1 ( NB All sites listed from consulting the Ordnance Survey 1st edition and most recent 1:10,000 map sheets, unless otherwise specified.All Gaelic translations undertaken by Mrs Aggie Murray, Ness.* Sites included in Burgess & Church 1997

cont .)